How Do Dermatologists Treat Acne?
If you search for acne solutions or treatment, most of what you find is focused on products and medications to treat the condition. For years, dermatologists have sought to conquer acne with antibiotics and drying agents like minocycline, isotretinoin, and benzoyl peroxide. The theory behind this treatment plan is that by killing bacteria and reducing oil on the skin, acneiform eruptions will be diminished. Dermatologists often approach acne like cleaning up an oil spill: get rid of the oil on the surface, and things will be all better, right? My concern with this approach is that it only addresses one aspect of acne: the symptom itself. It also does not take into account the feedback moving from the surface of the skin to the sebaceous glands underneath. I'd rather see dermatologists dig a little deeper into the root cause, instead of just mopping up the mess.
In considering any condition or ailment, a whole health assessment is indicated. In most cases, even for those of us who live a pretty “clean” life, there is room for improvement. As a "whole-body" doctor, I take more of a whole-body approach to acne than most dermatologists do. In this article, I will touch on a few areas where most of us could bring some extra awareness, and then I'll share the Osmia Skincare plan for managing acne-prone skin.
Does Diet Cause Acne?
In many cases, yes—and it’s one of the most important areas to explore if you're dealing with breakouts. Acne is, at its core, an inflammatory condition. Certain bacteria on the skin can trigger a cascade of inflammation, which brings increased blood flow (hello, redness) and a rush of white blood cells to the scene. Those cells try to contain the bacteria, often resulting in a little pocket of pus under the skin or at the surface—aka, a pimple.
So where does food come in? Inflammatory foods can add fuel to the fire. If your diet regularly includes processed or sugary foods, your body may have a harder time keeping inflammation in check. That doesn’t mean you have to be perfect—but your skin will thank you for making some thoughtful adjustments. We'll walk through the top dietary culprits next.
Does eating sugar cause acne?
Sugar is one of the biggest, baddest wolves of inflammation. There’s sugar in almost everything. Things like glucose, fructose, sucrose, lactose (all the “oses” are sugar) are in most foods, so you won’t waste away if you cut out a few. Try to get your sugar from real, unprocessed foods like fruit, which comes complete with the fiber that is meant to accompany it. If you crave more than that, eat a square of dark chocolate in the afternoon—loaded with antioxidants and eaten in moderation, the benefit outweighs the cost. My favorite sweet-tooth trick? Place a drop of fennel essential oil on your tongue or in your tea; it satisfies a sugar craving instantly (but not if you hate licorice).
Does eating dairy cause acne?
Chinese medicine has long considered dairy to be the most congesting, inflammatory food group, increasing mucus production and hindering digestion. Try switching to almond milk, and stick with goat and sheep cheese if you need a cheese fix—they are easier to digest. Some cultured dairy, like kefir, may be beneficial if you don’t take any other probiotic supplementation. If you do eat dairy, try to eat full-fat dairy, as it may have less of an effect on your acne than nonfat dairy.
Does eating gluten cause acne?
Too many genetic modifications in the wheat crop have started a bit of a gluten intolerance epidemic. People with true celiac sprue are rare, and truly can’t have ANY gluten (not even the gluten in soy sauce or some skin care products). Most of us, though, are just “gluten intolerant”, meaning that gluten causes bloating, gas, and tummy aches, as well as general inflammation in the body. Most of us know that "the whiter the bread, the sooner you're dead," but even whole grains can cause inflammation in some folks, especially when it comes to genetically modified grains. Luckily, there are some really good gluten-free products now (not cardboard-y like they used to be), as well as naturally gluten-free, protein-rich grains like quinoa and millet.
Does eating Omega-6 fatty acids cause acne?
These belong to a category of essential fatty acids, which are, as the name implies, essential to our diets because we can’t make them ourselves. Some omega-6 acids are good, but too many become inflammatory. Present in soybean oil, corn oil, and safflower oil, omega-6 fatty acids are present in huge quantities in the modern Western diet. Historically, we have eaten comparable amounts of omega-3 fatty acids to balance the omega-6s. With the invention of fast food and the focus on eating cheaply, however, there is a critical imbalance in our diets; highly-processed foods cooked in seed oils are causing inflammation in our bodies, which plays a huge role in chronic diseases like diabetes, digestive problems, depression, allergies, heart disease, and autoimmune issues. The good news? You can correct the imbalance by adding things like walnuts, wild rice, edamame, flax, and sustainably-caught fish like salmon to your diet, as well as decreasing processed and fried foods.
Does eating meat cause acne?
Most meat has been treated with hormones that confuse and irritate your body’s internal environment. Many meat products, especially those from large meat production facilities, have excess saturated fat due to the animals’ diets and forced immobility, and too high of an omega-6 to omega-3 ratio (less true for pasture-raised animals). Even high-quality red meat contains a molecule called Neu5Gc, which does not occur in humans, and which is seen by our immune systems as a foreign agent, causing... wait for it... inflammation! So, opt for non-GMO soy protein, beans, protein-rich grains, grass-fed beef or venison, or healthier fish instead of a mainstream cheeseburger.
Full disclosure: I’m a vegetarian and have been for 25 years because I love animals and hate the idea of hurting them. Also, I believe we are evolving toward a more plant-based diet as a species, hence our incredibly long digestive tracts and lack of sharp canine teeth. But, those are not the reasons why meat makes this list.
Do food additives cause acne?
Artificial colors, flavors, and things like aspartame and MSG are inflammatory in the diet as well, and have been linked increasingly to diseases of inflammation like arthritis, fibromyalgia, and other autoimmune conditions. So we won't be surprised when the study comes out saying they cause acne, too!
Does drinking alcohol cause acne?
I like wine—a lot. It’s like a complex, drinkable perfume to me. I like good tequila, especially mixed with some sparkling water and a splash of citrus. I love a hot toddy on a cold winter night. But I've dramatically reduced my alcohol intake over the last couple years because the medical evidence is becoming as clear as a shot of vodka: there are ZERO health benefits to consuming any amount alcohol. While maintream medicine will still condone 1 drink a day for women and 2 a day for men, more and more functional medicine practitioners are recommending even less than that, like a few drinks per week at the most. And abstinence is a great option, as well.
Does Stress Cause Acne?
We all have stress. Every, single one of us. Even the wealthiest billionaires and the most practiced Buddhists in Tibet have to manage stress. When we're stressed, our bodies produce more hormones, namely cortisol and testosterone. Both of these hormones cause an increase sebum production, which can cause breakouts while the skin adjusts to the change. In addition, we tend to care for ourselves less attentively when we are stressed, sleeping less, taking less time for our mental and physical health routines. The result? Acne, dark circles under the eyes, irritability, decreased hydration—any of this sound familiar?
How do you manage your stress? My favorite instant technique is to use deep, slow breathing to slow my system down, and remind myself that whatever is stressful will not always be stressful. Broader management could include yoga, meditation, exercise, aromatherapy, time with family, and long baths on weekends. All of those are hard to fit into a jam-packed schedule, yet critical to my health and happiness. There will always be pressure and worry and not enough time and an endless to-do list. But perfect running weather and my girls’ precious childhood years will slip right through my fingers if I don’t pay attention. Step back, breathe, and find your own way to keep stress in check.
Can Exercise Help Acne?
First of all, exercise is a great way to manage stress. The chemicals released when you exercise are called endorphins, a word made from two other words: endogenous, meaning “from within”; and morphine, a pain-relieving medication. You literally make your own pain and stress-relief chemicals by working out!
Aside from that amazing fact, sweating can actually good for your skin. Through sweating, we balance our electrolytes, and increase blood flow to the skin temporarily, warming it and allowing clogged pores to release. That said, if you exercise in heavy makeup, your pores may become more plugged. So, exercising with clean skin, followed by a gentle rinse with water should leave your skin fresh and revived.
Can Better Hygiene Help Acne?
This isn’t a judgment on your cleanliness. But if we scanned our hands, towels, headbands, or pillowcases with one of those forensic blue lights from CSI, most of us would want to crawl out of our skin. Without turning into a germaphobe, here are a few easy hygiene upgrades that can reduce the bacteria on your face—and help your skin stay clearer.
- Wash your hands often, and do it properly.
- Keep your hands off your face. Seriously. Unless you're doing your skincare routine, just… don’t.
- Use clean towels and washcloths. You don’t need to wash them after every use, but have one clean, designated washcloth just for your face, and toss it in the laundry regularly.
- Clean your phone, tablet, and keyboard with alcohol or a natural antibacterial wipe (like CleanWell). Our devices go everywhere with us—and they’re gross.
- Always wash your face before bed. No exceptions. Especially if you wear makeup or sunscreen during the day, your skin needs to breathe at night. Plus, your pillowcase will thank you (and still needs a weekly wash).
What Is The Best Skincare Routine For Acne?
Okay, the time has come to talk about a treatment strategy—and it might not be the one your dermatologist gave you. We're shifting away from harsh, skin-stripping acne solutions that rely on medicated cleansers and conventional topical medications. The truth is, pulling too much oil from the skin often triggers it to produce more oil, not less. The result? More breakouts. And once a pimple surfaces, drying it out with aggressive treatments usually leaves behind redness, flaking, and scarring. Who wants that? Few things are more frustrating than prepping for an evening out, trying to conceal a blemish, and finding that your makeup gets stuck in the dry, peeling skin, making the zit even more obvious than before.
- Oil cleansing is trending, and for good reason—it deep cleans without disrupting the skin. But use it just once or twice a week. If done more often, it can leave things very dry, prompting the skin to ramp up oil production and potentially cause breakouts.
- Use a gentle cleanser or handmade soap for your daily routine. Fewer ingredients typically mean less chance of irritation. That said, even natural products aren't one-size-fits-all. Look for calming astringents (like Dead Sea mud), detoxifying agents (such as charcoal or clay), and healing botanicals (think aloe, green tea, or chamomile) to help balance the skin.
- Exfoliate regularly—but not obsessively. One to two times a week is enough to keep the outer layer of skin healthy and help prevent clogged pores. Over-exfoliation, on the other hand, compromises the barrier and leaves your skin more vulnerable to bacteria and breakouts.
- Try a raw manuka honey mask. Twice a week is ideal for reducing inflammation and benefiting from its natural antibacterial properties.
- Don’t fear oil serums. When applied to damp skin after cleansing, the right oil blend can actually help regulate sebum production. If you break out from an oil serum, it might not be the right one for you—but remember, some purging is normal when switching products. Give it at least a week.
- Look for blemish treatments that fight bacteria without frying your face. Ingredients like benzoyl peroxide, salicylic acid, and sulfur can be harsh. Instead, opt for essential oils with proven antibacterial and anti-inflammatory benefits.
- And finally—please, no picking. Be honest: how often does it actually help? Most of the time, it makes things worse. Leave extractions to the professionals.
When Should I See A Doctor For Acne?
If you are doing all of these things, and still having regular breakouts, then it’s time to consider other options with your healthcare provider. Here are some topics to discuss:
- Systemic medications: Aside from their bacteria-killing action, many antibiotics are anti-inflammatory, and can help break the cycle that is keeping your skin inflamed. Accutane can be very effective for some people, but comes with side effects. There is absolutely a place for medication in acne treatment, but it should come after you have taken all of the above, less invasive measures to promote your skin’s health.
- LED light and/or laser therapy: These technologies are on the rise and improving, and can help penetrate deeper layers of the skin, where cystic acne tends to form.
- Natural hormone supplements: Consider a hormonal cause of your condition, especially if you are an adult with new-onset acne. Hormones out of balance can trigger breakouts, even after those awful teenage years. You wouldn’t believe how many women in their 40s suddenly find themselves dealing with acne. (Zits AND wrinkles? So unfair!) But, you can support your body’s hormone balance with a variety of natural supplements, like evening primrose oil or black cohosh.
Most importantly, make sure your doctor takes a whole-health approach to caring for your skin. If the plan doesn’t address your diet and habits, then something is missing, and you should look for a more comprehensive provider.
What Are The Best Natural Skincare Products For Acne?
Black Clay Facial Soap is one of our best selling products and performs beautiful for many skin conditions, including acne and perioral dermatitis.
Purely Calm Gel Toner is a soothing dose of aloe-based hydration designed to calm inflammation. We love it mixed with Balance Facial Serum for acne-prone skin.
Purely Simple Face Cream is a light, hydrating face cream that provides gentle moisture for acne-prone skin without clogging pores or adding weight.
Balance Facial Serum is a facial oil made with anti-inflammatory black cumin seed oil that helps balance sebum production and soothe irritated blemishes.
Spotless Blemish Oil is a targeted blemish serum that helps reduce inflammation and bacteria on the skin.
Our Breakout Face Kit contains the Black Clay Facial Soap, Balance, and Spotless, and works beautifully as a simple, three-step skincare routine for acne, using powerful, plant-based ingredients rather than drying and punishing the skin.
With love and healthy skin from us to you,
The information contained in this post is for educational interest only. This information is not intended to be used for diagnosis or treatment of any physical or mental illness, disease, or skin conditions.
